Hardware Test Bench

Screen test

Full-screen colour fields for finding dead pixels, backlight bleed and banding, plus a live refresh rate reading.

Ready

Test patterns

arrow keys step, Esc exits

Pick a field and the whole screen fills with it. Wipe the panel first, because dust on a black field is indistinguishable from a stuck pixel until you touch it.

This display

measuring

Hz measured refresh

Steadiness
Screen resolution
In CSS pixels
Device pixel ratio
Colour depth
Colour gamut
Dynamic range
Orientation

Quick checks without going full screen

read these at arm's length
Black to white. Any visible step edges mean banding rather than a smooth fade — check your colour depth setting and your cable before blaming the panel.
Near-black steps. You should be able to count distinct bands. If the first few merge into one, your black level is crushing shadow detail.
Near-white steps. Merged bands at this end mean highlights are clipping, which is usually a brightness or contrast setting pushed too far.
One-pixel lines. These should look crisp and even. Blurring, shimmering or a colour fringe points at a non-native resolution or a scaling setting.

What you are looking for

Black on every field
dead pixel
One colour always lit
stuck pixel
Bright edges on black
backlight bleed
Corner haze that moves
IPS glow
Steps in a fade
banding
Faint permanent ghost
burn-in

Dead pixels do not recover. Stuck pixels sometimes do, and the pixel flash pattern is the usual attempt. Give it ten to thirty minutes, and skip it entirely if flashing light bothers you.

Test it the week it arrives

Manufacturers publish defect policies, and many will not treat a panel as faulty until several dead sub-pixels are present or one sits in the central zone. Return windows are short, so check a new monitor or laptop on day one and photograph anything you find.

Bleed against glow

Move your head. Backlight bleed stays exactly where it is; IPS glow shifts and fades as your viewing angle changes. That one test separates a possible warranty claim from a normal property of the panel technology you bought.

Judge it in the room you use

Face-on in a blacked-out room, every LCD looks bad. If you only notice bleed while hunting for it, it is normal. If it interrupts you during an ordinary dark scene at your usual brightness, it is excessive.

How to use the screen test

Clean the screen first. Most suspected dead pixels turn out to be dust, and you will not tell the difference until the screen is a solid colour.

  1. Clean the screen and dim the room

    Wipe the panel with a dry microfibre cloth. A speck of dust on black looks exactly like a stuck white pixel until you touch it.

    Turn the lights down. Backlight bleed and clouding are invisible in a bright room and obvious in a dark one.

  2. Cycle every colour field

    Go full screen and step through black, white, red, green and blue. Look across the whole panel each time rather than staring at the centre.

    A pixel that stays black on white is dead. One that stays red, green or blue on every field is stuck. Dead is permanent; stuck sometimes recovers.

  3. Check gradients and refresh rate

    The gradient field reveals banding: visible steps instead of a smooth fade, which points at an 8-bit panel, a low colour depth setting, or an aggressive cable.

    The refresh reading shows what your browser is actually getting. If you paid for 144 Hz and see 60, check the display settings and the cable before anything else.

Questions people ask

Dead versus stuck pixels, bleed versus glow, and how much of either is normal.

What is the difference between a dead pixel and a stuck pixel?

A dead pixel receives no power and stays black on every colour, including a full white field. A stuck pixel is permanently lit in one colour, so it shows as a bright red, green, blue or white dot against black.

The distinction matters because stuck pixels sometimes recover on their own or with a flashing pattern, while dead pixels effectively never do.

Can this fix a stuck pixel?

Sometimes. The flashing pattern rapidly cycles colours to exercise a sub-pixel that has got lodged, and it does occasionally free one. Leave it running over the affected area for ten to thirty minutes.

It is not guaranteed and it does nothing for a genuinely dead pixel. If the flashing is uncomfortable to watch, look away, and skip it entirely if you are sensitive to flashing light.

How many dead pixels are normal on a new screen?

More than most people expect. Manufacturers work to published defect policies, and many will not consider a panel faulty until several dead sub-pixels are present, or one is in the central zone.

Test a new monitor or laptop as soon as it arrives and photograph anything you find, because return windows are short and the evidence is easier to gather on day one.

What is backlight bleed and is mine too much?

Backlight bleed is light escaping around the edges of an LCD, visible as brighter patches on a black field in a dark room. It is a byproduct of how LCDs are built and essentially every LCD has some.

Judge it in normal viewing rather than face-on in a blacked-out room, where every panel looks bad. If you notice it during ordinary use, it is excessive; if you can only find it while hunting for it, it is normal.

What is IPS glow and how is it different?

IPS glow is a silvery haze in the corners that shifts as you move your head, and it is inherent to the IPS panel type rather than a defect. Backlight bleed stays put when you move.

That movement test is the quickest way to tell them apart, and it matters because glow is not covered by any warranty while severe bleed sometimes is.

What causes colour banding on the gradient?

Visible steps instead of a smooth fade usually mean the panel or the pipeline is working at a lower colour depth than the image needs. Many panels are 8-bit or 6-bit with dithering.

Before assuming the panel, check the colour depth setting in your graphics control panel, and check the cable: an under-specified HDMI or DisplayPort cable at high resolution and refresh rate will reduce depth to keep up.

Is the refresh rate reading accurate?

It measures how often the browser can actually paint, which normally matches your display's refresh rate closely. It is a good check of whether a high refresh monitor is genuinely running at its rated speed.

Variable refresh rate, battery saving modes and a busy machine can all pull the reading below the panel's maximum, so take a reading with the system otherwise idle.

Can I test for OLED burn-in with this?

Yes, and the solid colour fields are the right tool. Burn-in appears as a faint permanent ghost of something previously shown, usually a taskbar, a logo or a heads-up display, and it is most visible on a mid-grey or a solid colour field.

Uniform full-screen colour also drives most OLED panels' own pixel refresh routines, which is a reasonable maintenance habit for a screen that shows static content.

Does the test work on a phone, tablet or TV?

Yes. Full-screen mode works on most mobile browsers, though iOS Safari restricts it in places, in which case scroll the page so the colour field fills the display.

On a TV, open the page in the built-in browser or cast a laptop to it. Turn off any motion smoothing and dynamic contrast processing first, because both alter what you are trying to measure.

Why should I test in a dark room?

Ambient light washes out exactly the faults you are looking for. Backlight bleed, clouding, black uniformity and faint stuck pixels are all low-contrast details that room light hides completely.

Bright fields are the exception: check white and light grey in normal lighting, since that is where dead pixels and dust show best.

Test the rest of your setup

Every tool runs in this tab, reads your hardware directly through the browser, and stores nothing.